We are staying last night and tonight at a spa hotel in
Pamukkale, which means "Cotton Castle." The town is named for the brilliant
white mineral cliffs here, created from spring water filled with calcium,
looking like the Niagara Falls suddenly deep-frozen. Hierapolis sits at the top
of these cliffs. Colossae and Laodicea are just a few miles away (see Col 4:13,
where all three are mentioned together).
Necropolis |
Hierapolis is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Both it and
Laodicea are large and amazing excavations, but Colossae is still just a tall,
irregular, grass-covered hill where one can see stones peeking through the
ground.
Tomb half-buried in calcium deposits of "cotton castle" |
Martyrion of Philip overlooking city and cotton castle |
Hierapolis dates from at least the 2nd century
BCE and perhaps the 4th, and reached its zenith in the 2nd
cent CE. It was built by the Phrygians (King Midas with the golden touch was a
Phrygian) and known for its textiles of cotton and wool, purple dyes, and
carpets. At the northern end of the city is an enormous necropolis—the road
runs for a mile—filled with more than a thousand tombs and sarcophagi—unimaginable
wealth must have gone into these. Some have faces of Medusa carved into them to
scare grave robbers away, but it apparently didn’t work.
One tomb was a little
too close to the spring…
Up on the mountain overlooking Hierapolis, with a view down
into the white cliffs, is the Martyrion of St. Philip. According to the
guidebook it’s unclear whether this is Philip the disciple/apostle or Philip
the father of the four prophet daughters, who in Acts 21 lived in Caesarea. I
vote for the disciple, who was born in Bethsaida by the Sea of Galilee and was
supposed to have been crucified upside down here. The Martyrion was built in
the fifth century as an octagonal church, and even though only some of the
walls remain it’s still quite lovely.
Also further down the mountain is one of the best-preserved
large Roman theaters in the world. Or, if you’ve been to a few (Wikipedia lists
them as being found in 18 modern countries from the U.K. and Portugal to
Tunisia and Syria), “another Roman theater.” So many in picturesque spots, as
this one is. Turkey has more than any other country, and we’ve already seen four
of them.
Theater |
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