Last day in Turkey

Gate of Salutation, Topkapi Palac

Thursday we went to museums. First was the Topkapi Palace, built by the Ottoman Turks on the Byzantine acropolis, right by the Marmara Sea, in 1459, after they conquered Istanbul. I think the guide said that thirty-six different sultans lived there, and renovated, through the centuries. It is the world’s largest palace, he said. Now it is a museum housing artifacts they collected and possessed. The buildings themselves are impressive. Some parrots live here. They were smuggled into the country and somehow got loose, and they are plentiful in the tree branches in the palace court.

One of many parrots

We couldn’t take pictures inside, so you have to take my word for it: the holy relics section contains not only various ancient locks from the Kaaba in Mecca, but also: Abraham’s sauce pan, Joseph’s turban, Moses’ staff, King David’s sword, and the arm of the Prophet John (I guess this is John the Baptist) in a gold arm-shaped case. There are also several cases containing beard hairs from the prophet Muhammad, and his wife Fatima’s prayer rug. It was quite interesting. The stories of how these things were obtained would be even more interesting, but they weren’t told.

The Imperial Gate

The jewels section contains a variety of objects, not only personal adornments but also jewel-encrusted cases, thrones, swords and so on. I guess I am just not a jewel person—it just inspired thoughts of greed and power. A couple of swords belonging to Suleiman the Magnificent, however, were impressive. There was also a clothing section with the tunics of various sultans. Joseph’s coat would have fit in well here, but it was “yok.”

Detail from the doorway

Suspension bridge between Europe and Asia

I found the buildings and courtyards of the Topkapi more interesting than most of the items on display, though it was certainly worth the visit. More impressive to me, however, was our next stop, at the Istanbul archaeological museum. Much of it was closed for renovation. But the part that was open contained a lot of sarcophagi and graves, many of them found in ancient Sidon. There was one enormous and elaborate sarcophagus that had been thought to be that of Alexander the Great, but according to the signage it was of his time period (late fourth century BCE), but belonged to King Abdalonymos of Sidon. The figures on it were originally painted (a model showed how it would have looked). 

The Abdalonymos sarcophagus

A colorized version of the fallen king

There was also the mummified (unwrapped) body of King Tabnit of Sidon (around 500 BCE) and his Egyptian-style sarcophagus, may he rest in peace.

But what took my breath away were the many gravestones with Greek inscriptions expressing the grief and appreciation of surviving family members: “Onesime (has erected) (this stele) in memory of his daughter Tryphaine and her own husband Epaphrodeitos…. Philippos has (also) erected this stele for his wife Tryphaine, who was his heart’s content.” 

From the fifth century BCE: “I am the monument of the daughter of Nadus from Caria. Halt and pity while passing by. This stele and monument (were erected) upon (my daughter), having left the bloom of virgin youth and her father as an only child.” 

From the 2nd or 3rd century CE: “Agatho (had this grave made) in memory of her husband, the pheasant breeder, with the money they earned together with much hardship.” “I 

Daughter of Nadus monume

have been exiled from life, Zotichus, son of Milon. He has lived for twenty-five years and eleven months.  We, his parents, Milon and Eia have erected this gravestone in his memory. Farewell, passer by.”

Dog stele

There was even a touching monument for a pet: “His owner has buried the dog Parthenope, that he played with, in gratitude for this happiness (Mutual) love is rewarding, like the one for this dog. Having been a friend to my owner, I have deserved this grave. Looking at this, find yourself a worthy friend who is both, ready to love you while you are still alive and also will care for your body (when you die).”

Street scene

Last, we visited the spice bazaar, which was smaller than the bazaar yesterday, and bought Turkish delight, spices, nuts, and apple tea. 

After that the group split up. I took a walk, ate lunch, and got ready to go to the airport. Now on the plane to Delhi.